I sampled Turtle Bay's new Reggae Roast and was left yearning to uncover their culinary secrets. When the word reggae is mentioned, what springs to mind?
Perhaps Bob Marley, dreadlocks, or those distinctive offbeat rhythms? But now, you might just associate it with a Sunday roast at Turtle Bay. The Caribbean-inspired eatery at Plymouth's St Andrews Cross has recently introduced Reggae Roasts to its Sunday offerings. And when I tried it I found it was the best way to turn the end of the week into the perfect day of rest. Well, isn't Jamaica known for its laid-back lifestyle?
Not that there is anything laid-back about the staff and welcome you get at Turtle Bay. Assistant manager Mac, he of the thousand-watt smile, and waiters Summer and Dan, who has worked as an actor, are the perfect hosts. Nothing was too much trouble, not even my vegan diet.
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It’s all catered for on the Reggae Roasts menu (available Sundays, noon-6pm). The vegan jerk “chicken” (£17) is right there along with jerk topside beef (£19), half jerk chicken (£18) and jerk pork belly (£18). All the roasts come with thyme and rosemary roast potatoes, dumpling sweet plantain, Caribbean roasted greens, carrots, parsnips and “chef Collin’s gravy”. I didn’t get to meet chef Collin but my compliments go to him.
There are half-portion Kids’ Roasts too (£9), and a host of sides, if you have room for more potatoes (£3.80), greens (£3.40) or mac and cheese (£4.40). I didn’t. The main Reggae Roast portion was enormous. About the size of Terre-de-Haut island, I think. Delicious too. And just spicy enough.
The vegan jerk “chicken” was astonishing. I’ve never eaten anything quite so substantial, but tender too.
What’s the secret? No one at Turtle Bay was letting on, and I can’t blame them. It’s a must to try, even if you are not 100% plant-based. Go on.
I’d mustered a starter too. My partner and I shared trini doubles (£6.50) and sweetcorn fritters (£6.50). The former is a Trinidad and Tobago street food - soft bara roti fried dough topped with curried chickpeas and cucumber chutney. The fritters are crunchy on the outside, with a fluffy centre, which is just the way a fritter should be.
After the Reggae Roast we were both so full we had to share a dessert: caramelised rum plantain, with its sweet rum syrup and coconut vegan ice cream. If you don’t know about plantain, check it out. It’s like the banana’s way cooler, and more versatile, big brother.
We washed this all down with a bottle of Il Baco Da Seta Prosecco (£24.50), extra dry. Lively and rich, it was the perfect accompaniment.
But, naturally, you can’t visit Turtle Bay without trying a Caribbean cocktail. It’s still only 2.30pm but we choose from the Sundowners selection. It’s Stir It Up for me, bourbon and pineapple rum with demerara syrup and a kick like Leon Bailey. My partner goes for Rude Boy Revival, a mix of Wray and Nephew Overproof rum and Old Navy rum balanced with fresh lime, Falernun liqueur and demerara syrup.
Two Tone in name but a kaleidoscope of flavour. Both priced £10.40. And a word about the drinks menu: everything vegan is marked as such. It’s those little details that make the difference, that make Turtle Bay stand out. Like the neatly folded proper linen napkins, the bright decor and the sound of someone shaking a cocktail at the central bar.
When you are in Turtle Bay everything is relaxed. Time seems to slow to a crawl. Willie Williams’ Armagideon Time plays softly. He’s singing about the final battle, the end of the world. Ah, who cares? You’re in Turtle Bay. Everything is irie.